The Vendee

From WholeEarthGuide.com in Vendée, France

Situated on the west coast of France, the Vendee is becoming one of France’s most sought-after holiday destinations. Its unique combination of glorious coastline and diverse countryside make it perfect for beach lovers and nature enthusiasts alike. It offers a taste of 'real France', with picturesque villages, historic towns, true French culture and some of the best beaches in France (a total of 140km) - all this easily accessible from the channel ports, yet far enough south to enjoy reliable summers and a warm, sunny spring and autumn (2500 hours of sunshine a year – on a par with many places in the south of France). The Vendee is now easily accessible for fly-drive breaks from the UK, with low-cost flights to either Nantes or La Rochelle, making it even more attactive as a holiday destination outside the peak season.

Varied countryside
Each part of the Vendee has its own style and its own charm. In the northern half, there is the rolling countryside of the 'Bocage' with its undulating pastures and woods, offering an authentic rural setting. The valley of the river Sevre Nantais is particularly attractive, flowing through the towns of Tiffauges, Mortagne sur Sevre and Clisson.

Further south, below the capital La Roche sur Yon are the dramatic expanses of the limestone plateau, with fields of sunflowers, wheat and maize, sleepy villages and only the occasional tractor to break the calm, peaceful ambiance.
Nearing the coast, the plateau gives way to the reclaimed lands of the 'Marais Desséché' won from the sea between the 12th and 16th centuries, crisscrossed with drainage canals and abounding with bird-life. Hundreds of years ago, many of the villages here (St Michel en l’Herm, St Denis du Payré, Triaize) were the only islands standing out in the shallow waters and marshes of the 'Golfe des Pictons', now replaced by fields of corn and sunflowers and offering spectacular skies and a light all it's own. The town of Lucon, now 21km inland, was once a thriving port – the last part of navigable canal and the port was finally filled-in in the 1960’s.

Superb coastline
Much of the Vendee coast backs onto miles of wild dunes and cool pine forest, and offers safe, sandy beaches ideal for family holidays, as well as surfing spots and a range of water-sports. From the point at L'Aiguillon-sur-Mer in the south, round to St Vincent-sur-Jard, the longest sandy beach extends, virtually uninterrupted, for over 12 miles. Further northwest there are delightful coves, rocky points and traditional ports. The islands of Noirmoutier (access by the famous causeway at low tide) and Yeu (1 hour by ferry) are both well worth a visit.

The famous 'Green Venice'
In the south-east, around the courses of the rivers Sevre Niortaise and Vendee, extends the famous 'Marais Mouille' (Green Venice) where the network of canals and waterways can be explored by punt or canoe. This fascinating area is essentially man-made, taking advantage of the low-lying land to create a winter flood trap to help with the reclaiming of the ‘Marais Desseché nearer the coast. The resulting water meadows provided rich pasture land, whilst the canals with their coppiced trees offered an important source of wood. Despite falling water levels in recent years, there are still small hamlets and isolated houses that are often only accessible by flat-bottomed boat during a few weeks in the depths of winter – but that’s just part of the ‘marais’ tradition…

Gastronomy
As with other regions of France, the Vendee is proud of its local produce. In the markets you will find a superb choice of fish and seafood, as well as wholesome vegetables with real flavour (‘bio’ is now more widely seen). Other local specialties include goat's cheeses, tasty hams, pates, honey and mead, and 'mogettes' (white beans). There are many local wine producers, centered on several main areas, including Mareuil-sur-Lay, Brem-sur-Mer and Pissotte. You can visit the producers for wine-tasting, and in particular we recommend a visit to the newly restored 'cave' Marie du Fou, next to the river bridge at Mareuil-sur-Lay - some of the most refined wines in the area. There is a wide selection of restaurants throughout the Vendee, offering an excellent choice of classic French cuisine or regional specialties. Take a tour round the local town, or through neighbouring villages and you will stumble across many excellent value restaurants, full of local character. Lovers of fish and seafood will find superb choice at the coast - the local mussels, served in dozens of different ways, are some of the best in France. Many restaurants also offer basic children's menus, so there is something for everyone.

Accomodation
There are many quality campsites and moblile-home parks along the coatline, but for those wishing to sample more authentic French living, renting a holiday home or 'gite' is the answer, of which there is a wide choice. The demand is high, so for the peak season it's best to book in the autumn for the coming year. If you wish to tour around the area, you will find well sign-posted B&B's ('chambres d'hotes') in many villages, but book ahead in July and August.


In terms of airports, there's a wide selection both in the region and just outside it including Dinard (DNR), Loriet (LRT) and Rennes (RNS). However, the ferry ports of Cherbourg and St Malo carry a comparable number of tourists taking advantage of the many family friendly attractions of this region.

Courtesy of Holiday cottages, gites and villas in Vendee

Photo courtesy of
Photos of the Vendee

Google
 

An OurInns site. Send us an email. See our blog Copyright © 2005-2008 Arnold Stewart.

uk/wholeearthguide.co.uk